A station built on islands, and the rooms facing it
Centraal Station stands on three artificial islands pushed out into the IJ in the 1880s, and the city turned its back on the water to face the new red-brick front. The hotels that grew up opposite it, along Prins Hendrikkade and the first blocks of Damrak, were built for people with luggage and a timetable. Many still work that way: a revolving door, a long counter, a queue at nine in the evening when the international trains come in. Behind the station the picture changes. Newer hotels line the waterfront to the east and west, glass and steel with views over the river and the ferries crossing to Noord. Between the old front and the new back, a guest can be three minutes from a platform and still sleep on a quiet floor. Both kinds of building suit an evening booking, once the desk knows which one you are in.











